Heading to the club early in the evening for our regular meeting provided me ample time to climb aboard and review the damage or the success of my efforts. Rain was pouring down and I noticed the cockpit drain thru-hulls were bleeding water down the keel as I mounted the ladder and stepped aboard. I looked down at the cockpit hatch cover I had installed a couple of weeks ago and it looked tight and wet all over the outside. I hoped for the best as I pushed the hatch cover and climbed down inside the salon.
Down below I heard the rain hitting all over the deck. The windows were spotted with mercurial drops of liquid. I ran my hand around and under the re-bedded windows. Dry. I looked in the dark for my work-light and stumbled a bit over a few tools in the process. This was it. As I clicked it on, I thought to myself what an arduous piece of work this had been and yet necessary. "If it does not work, I will have to find another remedy," I sighed to myself.
Clicking on the light, I opened the first cabinet hatch, the prime offender, the light bathed the inside and I looked up at the "usual suspects," the bolts which I'd marked. Dry. "Really?" Can't be I thought? Running my fingers along the cabinet it was dry. Dust from work the other day remained unmoved. Bolt after bolt was dry and not a trace of wetness anywhere. I moved forward to the forward offending chain-plate hole. Dry. Not a touch of wetness, not a streak, not a hint of wetness. The forward v-berth even smelled fine. Mind you, the chain-plates I simply re-taped because I am waiting for the actual re-manufactured plates to arrive. I will not use this sealant for the chain plates! They will require an adhesive sealant like Boat Life polysulfide, just fyi.
The fix was indeed working. The removal and re-bedding has worked. So far. I had used ordinary 3M Silicone Sealant (pictured here) for the bedding and as my last post had mentioned, everything underneath simply had not been touched in 39 odd years. It was time for some re-fitment on that track and underneath the cap rail. Interestingly enough, the rivets which join hull and deck were firmly in place and showed no signs of deterioration and no evidence of leaking water down the inside.
Word of caution to the adventurous, this activity is probably best done with 2 people because of the order required to reinstall the genoa track, which itself, is not curved as it appears, but a straight piece of sturdy metal. Thus, the order of precedence for reinstallation of parts and items for me was, 1) apply sealant on hull-deck surface for closure under cap rail, 2) re-put cap rail using pressure to insure spread of sealant, 3) apply sealant underneath genoa track before installing 1st anchor bolt pin in foremost position, then using that first pin as anchor with assistance from someone to hold that point with hands 4) force genoa track toward hull and sequentially insert bolt pins one by one making every effort to clear top of cap rail (so as to avoid spread of sealant all over top of cap rail) until last bolts are put, 5) carefully address errant bolt entries due to angle of insertion using persuasive hammer to reseat them to factory positions.
The rebedding of the track and cap was a bit of an ambidextrous operation to say the least. The photo reveals I had to clean up a bit the next day as without any help I found myself wrestling this genoa track while trying to maintain the integrity of my sealant application! OCD as I am, I regretted this oversight in my planning but my cranial density prevailed and I conquered this hurdle nonetheless.
After my visit, I was certainly relieved to discover the Berg had survived such rain. This encounter she had with storm Hermine, I did not want to produce another "issue" of leaks to crowd my agenda, already now, prepping for the next diesel phase, propeller shaft removal and re-fitment.