Baggy Wrinkles

Baggy Wrinkles
S/V Nautica, Hull #614, Built at Whitby Boatworks Ltd., Ontario, Canada 1977, one of the most recognizeable Carl Alberg designs. A masthead sloop displacing 9000 lbs, keel hull, Yanmar 15 hp diesel, LOA 30.27 Beam 8.75, Draft 4.29, roller furling headsail, tiller, berths for 4, interior teak bulkheads, teak cap rail and cockpit teak coamings, 12 volt lighting, aluminum mast support, Harken self tailing winches, in its day was designed for customers as a Cruiser-Racer, the Alberg 30 remains a Classic design of the modest Alberg inventory.

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Friday, September 30, 2016

An incredibly competent machinist has created a new prop shaft for the Berg!  But this one is not it...  As you can see, it was time for a major intervention to replace this extension of the diesel power-plant.

The propeller shaft lying in the Burb waiting for a makeover.  The things unseen to the naked eye were an out-of-round shaft, anomalies in the propeller blades which would create shaking under power, and the corrosion, everywhere evident which kept the shaft from turning freely in its components. They had to be cut in order to be removed from the Alberg.
Gorgeous.  The external corrosion was one part of the story, the disagreement of the fitment made this piece of the power-plant made the idea of going "under engine power" a disagreeable idea indeed.  If it is this bad just sitting still, one wonders what the performance will be underway.  I don't want to experience that.  Fix it quick!

When you don’t know any better and people are advising you, it’s probably a good idea to go not with your own impression but with the resume of who’s telling you what.  I don’t trust my intuitive nature to get me through life on its own cause it is sometimes subject to whimsical comedy that laughs at reason in the face of common sense.

So it was with the prop shaft.  From the outset of this refitment I gazed many times into the bilge at the rusted coupler, the corroded shaft and the scratchy cutlass bearing, and wondered how in the world I would get this resolved.  I knew after my first 3 hour seminar with Charlie that I had hit upon a gold mine of education and competence regarding the diesel.  So, when he said, we gotta do this are you game?  I happily said, “let’s do it,” there was no way in the world that shaft was going to turn unless under duress.  I did not want to splash a vessel that was admittedly not ready or up to the tasks of having an engine aboard which is close to useless.

The location was several hours away, in Brunswick, Georgia.  I’d been there a couple of times before but did not see enough to scratch the surface of what it offered.  Perhaps I should have investigated Saint Simons Island instead, but I have never thought the shallow, brown colored Atlantic in that area held any interest for me.  But as for a machinist shop, there was much to discover.

Machinists area a special breed of people who live in a world of metal shavings and the darkened halls of rooms full of large behemoth machines capable of doing wonders with metals.  I’d used another outfit locally when I needed help for my Typhoon and my motorcycle, and those guys were great, but this was a specific shop dedicated to propeller shafts and propellers.  Eureka!

Not several steps into the dark chasm of a room, a large lathing machine lay to my left and a drill press stood blocking my way, looking as if it could drive through a foot of steel in an instant, Tyler appears.  A 30 something machinist with a great personality and a “can-do” attitude.  His competence was relaxing.  I laid the pieces on a rubbery table top scarred with scrapes and indentations of other candidates as he quickly nodded and easily employed a measuring device to the shaft, “7/8ths, yep..” affirming my measurement previously using a tape measure.  He then informed me that if I agreed, that he’d remove this and that and then need to do something about the prop which was bent and hacked up, and generally gave me a desk-side assessment that only a competent individual in that trade could do. I agreed, “yes, yes, and yes please…” I was quick to give him permission to make this thing work.

The problem was rather evident.  Although the Berg overall is in good condition, it is not in great condition.  After the encounter with loose nuts, persistent leaks, and years of routine maintenance, the old girl had given her best and was hardly ready for some sailing.  She had probably outlived her owners’ abilities to do the “grunt work” that had greeted me at the yacht’s work yard in the middle of summer.  Like getting to know your bride, this gal had all the right stuff if someone would’ve just had the time to lay her up and spend every winter doing maintenance.  I think that is an owner’s responsibility not hers.  And every owner is not going to rise to the challenges of time, sweat, disappointment and responsibility, including financial, to bring a vessel back into her class cohort.  I’d taken that responsibility and felt like a step-father to the Berg as we looked down at the sorry-looking and corroded shaft seized and impossibly useless.  “Let’s do it..,” and we jumped on the phone with Charlie who then sorted out the details and requirements with a bit more elan than my “yeah rights” that I offered freely.
The propeller refused to yield to Charlie's extraction.  Years of corrosion had repelled me from anything but a terrified look. 
 After a day of work, the new shaft was machined, coupler attached, old cutlass bearing refitted with new bearings, and a more up-to-date seal for the prop shaft was included in the package.  The propeller was tuned and polished up as well.  
Putting in this 10 x 20 Bomar deck hatch enabled the guys to extract the shaft with less pain and suffering.  In the long term it provides me an easier access to all the items that end up running through this area underneath the cockpit.   The best hundred bucks I've spent in a long time.

These items, from the "Brunswick Connection," I delivered to Charlie who was sitting 'neath a tree near the lake at his work yard.  He was very enthusiastic I had taken his recommendation to use this out of town machinist.  It was a bit of trust that was needed to do such an expedition.   Holding the stainless steel shaft he examined the craftsmanship and said that after about a week, he'd have it installed in the boat and bring her back to where they'd first abducted her at the Club.

Progress was made.  I'll have to get a photograph of the shaft in place to provide a more thorough appreciation of this adventure.  That is to come.

Taken while I was working a few issues below decks, the cockpit deck hatch provides clear access to the transmission and coupler, prop shaft and all the thru hulls and electrical connectors to the instrument panel.

Saturday, September 24, 2016

My Alberg has been abducted.

It occurred this past Friday, 16 September, and discovered as I pulled into the yacht club work yard.  The entire rig was gone!  My ladder was lying on the ground, cinder blocks were tossed about, bricks here and there tossed like Legos, and not a trace of the Alberg!

It's really easy to steal a sailboat on a trailer.  Just grab a big truck with a 2.5 inch ball, hook-it-up and tow-it-out.  I pulled up into the empty yard and sat looking at the mess left behind and thought, "why didn't he call me before he took my vessel?"  It had been grabbed by my diesel mechanic who I had implored to extract my prop shaft.  After a couple of text messages, it was indeed that, a friendly abduction by the same good-hearted technician who had serviced my diesel a few weeks back.  I felt a bit like a Dad who goes to pick up their kid from school and there's no kid to pick up because he missed his wife's message that she had already done it.  Well, it was all in an effort to help all the while, so I made the best of cleaning up the yard and doing a few more "sourcing" errands for future work items.

There are many marine things for which I do not have the expertise.  And the prop shaft is one.  I'll let the pros do this and stand-by in awe.  Once it's pulled I can move toward it's remanufacture and get to the rigging in earnest.  Then a splash will follow. 

Looking back just one month ago at my "to-do" list is revealing:
  • cap rail repaired, sanded, varnished 5 coats (3 gloss base and 2 matte finish) and complete  DONE
  • garden variety gate valve replaced with Groco lever DONE (actually replaced the two cockpit drain valves and one thru-hull too)
  • coamings repaired, sanded, varnished and ready to put DONE (re-installed)
  • replaced to dorets on the stern DONE
  • replaced the zinc on the rudder with magnesium DONE
  • pulled 4 salon portlights without mishap, reputting tinted acrylic DONE
  • chainplates manufactured with 5/16ths bolts ready to reput with strengthening plywood and fiberglass PENDING
  • refurbished the V-berth sole with Epiphanes DONE (completed revarnish of complete salon sole)
  • reput leaking stanchion on portside DONE
  • refurbished port side salon cabinet and backing DONE
  • sanded, repaired and painted the cabin salon with Brightsides DONE
  •  validated functionality of bilge pump and automatic indicator DONE
  • inspected interior of forward water tank to determine next best solution DONE (no further action taken)
  •  compounded and polished entire freeboard of hull with 3M high speed polish and polisher DONE
  • New:  relocated batteries to ice box compartment and secured with straps
  • New:  refinished in teak oil then re-put salon and cabin top handrails
  • New:  reput gaskets and installed Perco lights fore and aft
  • New:  relocated battery wiring and installed new master switch on bulkhead for batteries
  • New:  replaced all hose clamps on diesel and rubber tubing as necessary, 
  • New:  refurbished and repainted air cleaner canister
  • New:  cut out hatch opening in cockpit sole and installed 10x20 Bomar hatch
  • New:  inspected light stress cracks in salon beam and reglassed area for repainting with Brightsides later
  • New:  removed broken Instrument panel and rebuilt with acrylic facing
  • New:  rerouted hoses and wiring in stern tacking to bulkhead and separating from engine area
  • New:  removed port genoa track and cap rail, rebedded both in sealant and reinstalled bolts for track to resist leaking on port side
  • New:  cut access point on port side lazarette underneath cockpit
Oh, and did I say I hit my head repeatedly on the bulkhead opening up some bleeding trying to crawl between the lower portion of the cockpit and the top of the diesel in order to remove and replace thru hull and reput two valves?  Most of this work has occurred during an oppressively hot August and early September.  Fortunately the heat has subsided a bit and the temperatures are now moderating as Autumn closes in on us tonight.  

Since the abduction of the Berg, I've concentrated on a few "household items" in my garage, finishing up the renovation of the engine cover and stairs plus finishing the final piece of salon sole.  I'd been doing one piece of sole per week and jumped in to do the final piece adjacent to the diesel the week of the abduction.  Although the shop workers probably don't need to access inside the salon, I had intended they at least have that piece upon which to stand in the event they needed it.  They got the boat too fast for me to put it back. 

Here is the transition of the section of sole from original through the stages of gloss and the finish of matte (Epifanes): 

Yes its dirty.  A sad thing people walk on.  But there is something great behind all those years of abuse.

I used the West Marine Teak Cleaner and Brightener before sanding it to clean out the grooves of 39 years of dirt and foot traffic, spilled wine, dinners, water, diesel, jewelry, etc...  Then I sanded the raised wood surface smooth.

First application of gloss which fills in the gaps of the texture.  Gloss is stronger than matte finish so first applications are meant to fill-in all the imperfections sanding has left available.

2nd gloss coat filling in all the scratches and grooves.

3rd gloss, Now it's ready for a couple of matte finish applications.

 Lots of these things come together all at once so I'm sort of converging to a point where we will step the mast at the club and hook up the shrouds all at once.  The chainplates had to be sent back to the manufacturer for some additional specification work and the trail has gone cold on them.  Will have to see what has transpired on this....?  While I had this opportunity to dabble with "undesireable" duties, I also refabricated the instrument panel backing and worked over the "first step" of the hatchway.

This is the little step just below the hatchway entry, small but critical step to access the rest of the steps below it.
This first step over the engine compartment looked pretty worn and sad too.  I thought, "as long as I have the time, I might as well spruce up this little jitney and bring out some life in it.  The wood color is what was underneath a plastic nonskid strip which had nearly glued itself forever on the step. 
Pulled off the dirty white non-skid tape and revealed the wood color beneath!  That has to be saved!
 Once I subjected it to the teak cleaner I realized it wasn't teak.  But the cleaner didn't hurt it nonetheless and it came to life real quick.
And here is the finished little step looking a bit more ready for its next clients.  Gorgeous wood.  Will require regular maintenance to sustain this active step aboard.  Imagine trying to find one of these replacements!

 Another sad place was the instrument panel in the starboard aft of the cockpit.  A broken plastic backing had nearly disappeared and the actual face of the panel was looking like it needed a complete replacement.   Yet with the cost of finding such a "period" instrument face and yet the remote idea of locating this frame base, I set out to rejuvenate what I had.
Cleaned up and sanded, will repaint with appliance white gloss and utilize some of the same acrylic I used on the salon portlights to provide a backing plate for the old instrument panel (also have to repaint it but can't get to it yet)
 This frame holds the instrument panel itself.  Before this photo above was taken years of sealant and broken plastic were removed.  I lightly sanded the frame and cleaned it with acetone, wiping all the residual sealant off for its new appliance white spray paint.  

The panel actually is upside down in the first photo and in the right position in this photo.  I found a couple of plugs at Lowe's to fit the two holes on the lower face of the panel.  I used 5200 adhesive to attach the acrylic to the face which will both prevent water from entering and hold close to the weight of an elephant when I reattach the instrument panel.
Looking pretty dapper now, the same acrylic I used on the salon portlights came in handy for the backing plate. Once I find the Alberg, I'll rescue the actual instrument panel, clean and paint it, and refit it to the acrylic facing.  

This give me time now to locate the Alberg and install those chain plates which just arrived back from the manufacturer today.  Yay, more work!

Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Would the work hold?

The past few days our weather pattern has shifted towards more rain.  Fortunately, this has provided good testing grounds for my Berg's leaking problem.  After fastidious attention to detail on the Berg, I watched the black clouds move in over us yesterday once again and kept my fingers crossed for a good test of the work I had done on the genoa track.  

Heading to the club early in the evening for our regular meeting provided me ample time to climb aboard and review the damage or the success of my efforts.  Rain was pouring down and I noticed the cockpit drain thru-hulls were bleeding water down the keel as I mounted the ladder and stepped aboard.  I looked down at the cockpit hatch cover I had installed a couple of weeks ago and it looked tight and wet all over the outside.  I hoped for the best as I pushed the hatch cover and climbed down inside the salon.

Down below I heard the rain hitting all over the deck.  The windows were spotted with mercurial drops of liquid.  I ran my hand around and under the re-bedded windows.  Dry.   I looked in the dark for my work-light and stumbled a bit over a few tools in the process.  This was it.  As I clicked it on, I thought to myself what an arduous piece of work this had been and yet necessary.  "If it does not work, I will have to find another remedy," I sighed to myself.  

Clicking on the light, I opened the first cabinet hatch, the prime offender,  the light bathed the inside and I looked up at the "usual suspects," the bolts which I'd marked.  Dry.  "Really?" Can't be I thought?  Running my fingers along the cabinet it was dry.  Dust from work the other day remained unmoved.  Bolt after bolt was dry and not a trace of wetness anywhere.  I moved forward to the forward offending chain-plate hole.  Dry.  Not a touch of wetness, not a streak, not a hint of wetness.  The forward v-berth even smelled fine.  Mind you, the chain-plates I simply re-taped because I am waiting for the actual re-manufactured plates to arrive.  I will not use this sealant for the chain plates!  They will require an adhesive sealant like Boat Life polysulfide, just fyi.

 The fix was indeed working.  The removal and re-bedding has worked.  So far.  I had used ordinary 3M Silicone Sealant (pictured here) for the bedding and as my last post had mentioned, everything underneath simply had not been touched in 39 odd years.  It was time for some re-fitment on that track and underneath the cap rail.  Interestingly enough, the rivets which join hull and deck were firmly in place and showed no signs of deterioration and no evidence of leaking water down the inside.  

Word of caution to the adventurous, this activity is probably best done with 2 people because of the order required to reinstall the genoa track, which itself, is not curved as it appears, but a straight piece of sturdy metal.  Thus, the order of precedence for reinstallation of parts and items for me was, 1) apply sealant on hull-deck surface for closure under cap rail, 2) re-put cap rail using pressure to insure spread of sealant, 3) apply sealant underneath genoa track before installing 1st anchor bolt pin in foremost position, then using that first pin as anchor with assistance from someone to hold that point with hands 4) force genoa track toward hull and sequentially insert bolt pins one by one making every effort to clear top of cap rail (so as to avoid spread of sealant all over top of cap rail) until last bolts are put, 5) carefully address errant bolt entries due to angle of insertion using persuasive hammer to reseat them to factory positions.

I prefer a clean fix but it's hard to do 3 things at once, that is, install the lead anchor bolt for the genoa track, then add adhesive for that track, then bend that track and insert the next 15 bolts, I found my self using both hands and feet in a creative and muscular adventure.  Some residual silicone clutters the cap rail and track but I prefer this to leaks.
The rebedding of the track and cap was a bit of an ambidextrous operation to say the least.  The photo reveals I had to clean up a bit the next day as without any help I found myself wrestling this genoa track while trying to maintain the integrity of my sealant application!  OCD as I am, I regretted this oversight in my planning but my cranial density prevailed and I conquered this hurdle nonetheless.

After my visit, I was certainly relieved to discover the Berg had survived such rain.  This encounter she had with storm Hermine, I did not want to produce another "issue" of leaks to crowd my agenda, already now, prepping for the next diesel phase, propeller shaft removal and re-fitment.

Saturday, September 10, 2016

Getting one thing done after another.  So I'm making progress!

Since Hurricane Hermine and the persistent rain it gave us a couple of weeks back, I've been on a detective mission to seal off "presenting" areas of a possible slow leak on my port side.  

Aside from the torrent of helpful conversations with many smart skippers on the Alberg 30 site ( , with specific reference to deck core replacement, I chose to probe some of the more obvious areas where I knew water probably entered.  Besides, tearing up my deck right now is beyond the scope of my initial splash efforts.  Putting on my detective hat, I was able to deduce where previous owners had already chased some problems and this gave me additional motivation to look and see what had been or not been done to stop the "apparent" places where water had entered.  Not much water, but slow leaks that had saturated one section, the port quarter near the ice-box, was wet when the Berg arrived in July.  The photo here is an example of the destruction of water over a long period of time.
If you see what looks like mulch in the bottom of this cabinetry, you're correct.  All of the cabinetry was soaking wet here, without even the semblance of its original shape or form.  The parts still attached I salvaged to some extent but decided to clean this out, sand, and repaint with Brightsides while awaiting its entrance on my work agenda.

That first week I probed this area and tore out the wood shelving which was wet to the touch and crumbled in my fingers.  Underneath, near one of the escape routes in the liner (for water to run to the bilge) I found wood which had not been dry for many years.  I removed everything, cleaned things up and painted with Brightsides (remember reading this here?), to enable me to get an easy view of new streaks of water, trails of debris, etc. 
The same area as the previous photo except where the shelving attaches to the cabinetry the water ran to the fiberglassing on the bottom of photo, rotted the wood (now removed) and then exited for the bilge (the small dark hole in the center bottom of photo. 

Here, with cabinetry removed sunlight comes through a chainplate backing plate which obviously had had a lot of water entering the inside.  Long term, I think I will remove and repair these all and re-attach with sealant.
While the stanchion just outside the salon on the port side was a leak suspect, re-bedding it perhaps helped but did not finish the job of stopping the leak.  So, the other day, I rather begrudgingly set to work on removing the genoa track.  I had taken the time just after the rains ended to get below decks and look for obvious droplets.  I found several on through-bolts entering via the genoa track.  

Well, the easy answer did not meet me well, the thought of removing that genoa track brought to mind several challenges,  "Could I get it to re-seat as well as it is now? or Would I run into a problem extracting these bolts? and What if I tear into a perfectly good thing and disrupt something that is working?  Perhaps my hunches and detective work are wrong?"

Naysaying my conscience aside, into the fray I jumped.  I was rather startled at what I found.  
A half dozen of the bolts, here marked by an arrow from when I observed droplets of water hanging from them after the storm, were neither tight nor showed any signs of significant sealant.  The white in this photo is from the Brightsides I applied, not sealant from a previous period.

Each bolt, seen in this close-up, had the same feature, clean threads (again the white is paint I applied inside) and a chalking residue underneath the head from "originally" installation in 1977, two years after I graduated from college.  I was 24 then and am 63 now.  Who would have figured we'd meet this way?
Look closely at the hole in the teak and the white corrosion left by the aluminum track which was on top of it.  Water and time have had their play with these 20 holes on the port side.  Why the port and not the starboard?  Perhaps this side was weaker and perhaps the other side is leaking yet I don't know of it yet.
Outside I pulled the genoa track off and discovered these lovely florets of 40 year old adhesive

This interesting close-up is to illustrate the design of the hull which has a lip into which the teak cap rail sets, deliberately designed to keep water from washing straight into this area of joinery.
As I pulled the track off and then lifted the cap rail, I found no evidence of wet teak, but I did find plenty of places where water could enter freely.  It must have run through the spaces and into the hull as it managed whether when sitting on its trailer in weather or while it was on a starboard reach underway and water may have lapped over it during sailing.  You can see the dirty blackish residue of water which had stood underneath the teak cap rail. 

Once apart, I left the florets in place, and cleaned the genoa track of its bulky residues of varnish and underneath of its oxidation.  I would then caulk sealant ( not using 4200 ) under the genny track and under the cap rail.  One long continuous and generous trail so that water would be forbidden at a variety of angles.  It may not be perfect but I think this gets at the first problem quickly.

Pretty huh?  Bolts without sealant permitted water to seep in from genoa track to cap rail to hull seam into the cabinetry. 
This view shows the battle scars of previous attempts to varnish and seal.  It is not a perfect solution, but after cleaning off the exterior sealant I think I've provided a wall of defense.  

As a note, the bonding rivets looked absolutely fine underneath this section of cap rail.  The bolts however were loose and dry, and easily permitted rain to soak them and formed a leaky entry to the salon.  This is how I am approaching this problem at this time.  Will have to wait for some more rain to see if this helps stop the problem.


Monday, September 5, 2016

It's tough to be so ignorant on so many topics!

Sure, it's simple.
Needless to say, it requires a great deal of resourcing, conversations, and reading, if directions are not handy.  And even if they are available, like this fabulous book by Don Casey, it's tough to not really have ever done some of these things required aboard yet have to do them to a standard of 80 percent at least.  When it comes to sea-cocks, we'll raise that standard to 100 percent!

As I hit my head on a bulkhead for the umpteenth time, peering into a corner to study wires, and attempt to determine why something is connected the way it is, I have to admit that sometimes, what I see has little to do with "simplified electronics."  
This looks pretty simple I guess.  What's that hole for on the right?  Is that white wire supposed to have a wire nut like that?  Why don't the mast lights work? 
In fact, nothing electric is simple to me, and with some of the disconnected wiring and unfinished places aboard, it is harder to interpret what wire is going to what place.  In the head for example, some work on the bulkhead from what appears to have been a leak, has been partially begun but left for me is to figure out the puzzle of how it goes back together. 
After ignoring this area for weeks, it is time to take a hard look at how to improve on what had begun here. It appears to have been a leak which damaged the bulkhead (and chain plate because of proximity) and yet pieces are not available for reassembly.  Previous owner had closed the sea cock for the head which was not able to be used in the protected waters of inland Nova Scotia.  A portable head was emplaced instead.  
Fortunately, our recent tropical storm did less damage in our region than in others, and provided me the opportunity to check my leak prevention work aboard.  The morning after it passed, I made the commute over to the club and climbed aboard to find the results.  

I had had this passing thought during the night, "...wonder if I opened the sea cocks for the cockpit?"  I decided to disarm that thought as one of those scurrilous sorts of night tremors that periodically keep me from sleeping by bringing up schedules, priorities, deadlines, old file items, and hosts of  unachieved goals and disappointments.  Ugh and sigh, the subconscious mind reminds me of the basement library at the French university, where the smells of a thousand years surround volumes you might associate with a film on the history channel.  Yet, the environment pulls you into the search...  I waited for the morning commute to the boat.

Stepping up the ladder I wondered if the cockpit would be full of water, or if the water might have simply filled the bilge, or maybe the sea cocks were functional and the boat was dry?  Peering over the port coaming, all looked well except that the starboard drain was backed up?  I slowly and cautiously raised the new deck hatch, and to my happy surprise, the diesel was high and dry and the starboard sea cock, although in the closed position, was not leaking from above, and upon releasing, its flow of water spilled to the ground.  The port sea cock had functioned flawlessly, draining all rain water from the cockpit and decks.  

Opening the hatch was not so happy....

Portlights are re-put with acrylic tinted replacement panes, and I had removed the shelving on this port side to check for leaks, and re-seated the stanchion base (the suspect), and  sanded and repainted the salon with Polyurethane Brightsides to make my hunt easier.  A small plastic container placed against the hull where the red case is lying in this photo was two thirds full of water when I arrived after the storm.  From the droplets I observed, I suspect I must do the inevitable, remove the genoa track.  This leak will be problematic every time this rail is buried under sail, probably what happened every summer for the past ten years or more.
My nose was met with the smell of wet fabric.  This meant either in the salon or v-berth, or both.  Inspection revealed the port side repairs in the salon I had previously made still did not address the invisible fracture creating a leak.
Stumbling over equipment and rearranging sail bags and wet cushions, I was very disappointed to discover the port-side near the first and second chain plates appeared to show some moisture, while even more rainwater appeared to stream into the port shelf above the v-berth.  I pulled both cushions out to dry in the cockpit for the weekend and re-engaged with my work light to examine traces of moisture or other indicators of the pathway of this leak.  Whereas I was able to actually see droplets of water hanging on the thru-bolts for the port-side genoa track, here in the v-berth, not so easily seen.  I removed the attractive peg-board, looks original to the Berg, which was wet at the base and has a delightfully musty smell itself.  Glad to see that go anyway.  I threw these items overboard to the ground.  I figured I would give the Berg the dry Labor Day weekend alone to think about her leaks and time to "dry-out" a bit before I climb back aboard and begin poking around again.

The taped-off area is where I had done some probing regarding possible arch problems and/or water issues and had fiberglassed the day before.  It was dry and happy.  Beyond, the collection of cushions, sails and equipment smelled of wet fabric. 

Too, I examined the mast step and the forward hatch emplacement, suspicious that perhaps the naked eye could not see fissures in and around those locations that might have permitted water to seep inside the top of the cabin and run discretely yet underneath the deck and flow downward through a bad seam between the hull and deck connection.  Many possibilities are possible and I have to eliminate them one by one.

On the up-side of all this, I think this Alberg's previous owners may not have had the urgency to discover these things because of the nature of their sailing plans.  After all, if the vessel had only been sailed for 3 months a year and covered up the rest of the year, perhaps this problem was avoided by virtue of not being so exposed to weather.  Nonetheless, there are some leaks.  I must find them and stop them.  This challenge will help for the future, as I will have a thorough knowledge of all the areas of the vessel and have a plan in place to execute if I have not already solved the problems ahead of time.  And that is a good thing.
Afternoon before storm Hermine predicted to arrive in the evening, I cycled over to check stuff and take down the extra plastic so rain is able to fall all over the cockpit and the deck.  It has to be subject to water, much water.

I expected an older vessel to have some issues but just the same I like the lines and look of the Alberg and think that given time she'll do just fine.