Baggy Wrinkles

Baggy Wrinkles
S/V Nautica, Hull #614, Built at Whitby Boatworks Ltd., Ontario, Canada 1977, one of the most recognizeable Carl Alberg designs. A masthead sloop displacing 9000 lbs, keel hull, Yanmar 15 hp diesel, LOA 30.27 Beam 8.75, Draft 4.29, roller furling headsail, tiller, berths for 4, interior teak bulkheads, teak cap rail and cockpit teak coamings, 12 volt lighting, aluminum mast support, Harken self tailing winches, in its day was designed for customers as a Cruiser-Racer, the Alberg 30 remains a Classic design of the large Alberg inventory.

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Tuesday, February 23, 2016

One thing leads to another on these old dories.

While awaiting some spreader boots, provided me time for getting the teak refurbished, re-puting some teak bungs in the taff-rail, and working issues related to protecting the surfaces with some Epiphanes varnish.  Like any project, there's a correspondence between when you can do something based upon your supplies at hand, and those you have on order, and the current status of your ongoing project. So I've adapted a products-based order of approach.  There's no need to hurry nor any crisis that should hurry good work on this old girl.
I had used this rubbery caulk for the past year or so to attempt to keep the water from seeping in-between the toe and rub rails.  However, not such a splendid idea as there was moisture underneath when I removed it.  So, off it comes, and will varnish this connection instead.  There are other places on the deck that might be more important culprits of permitting seepage.

The 4 inch square sander is perfect for this task (above) and the chisel helps to remove the line of filler I used for a season.  The filler simply kept moisture in the joint, so I'm removing it completely this season.  The varnish requires about 6 to 8 treatments, and that corresponds to as many days.  Some rain is in the forecast but I don't think a small amount will bother this effort. It simply requires persistence by the worker, me.
 I decided to take advantage of a passage of good weather to bear down on the teak and prepare it for some protection.  And I decided to multi-task, get the teak started, then shift to rigging, and then additional deck paint....  The lines from RW did arrive in a timely manner and this is how they arrived at my door, ready to be pulled through the mast. 

I ordered both main and jib halyards exactly to CD specifications along with messenger capability on one end and the stainless connectors on the other end.  Ready to go.
The color coding of the lines will make for easy handling when either I forget which side of the mast the main is exiting, or when I have another less-acquainted shipment aboard and I cannot say quick enough which line to handle, then I'll just say, "get the blue one!"  Much easier than saying, "uh yeah, um grab the one with the light blue flecks in it, wait a minute....I mean light green, no blue? I don't know...grab the one on the left side of the mast, whoops, no....the right side, that's it!"  Ok, that's over.  Grab that one there, the blue one, and pull it fast! 

While on the ground the mast is easy to handle and the lines quickly run in and out making for a no-mess refit of halyards.  I spread the mast on a couple of ladders and voila, done.  I sealed off the bitter ends of both jib and main halyards and stowed them as dock lines for situations requiring more than standard lengths like 30' feet.  Always good to have more lines aboard.

Whipped together at left, the lines are easy to slip through their openings in the mast.  They'd probably been able to go through with just tape on them but I didn't want to take that chance and ruin a perfectly great day!

As you can see, the connectors are fitted to the size of the lines by RW Rope and this makes for less mental stress on my part to order just the right size.  I checked with them on this and said, "Great, so you guys will do the right 'size' of closure device?"  "Yup they said."  Nice work.

Lines are looking good and ready for use. 
One more piece needing attention is at the base of the mast where successive generations of work and adjustment has evidently been made.  Two sets of holes in the aluminum give evidence that another owner in years past, had had to make a fitment for the tabernacle.  In my observation, the mast appears to fit the tabernacle well, despite the double set of holes.  Yet, as a friend noted, a riveted piece of stainless steel probably needs to be attached to the mast in order to guarantee future years of proper alignment and inhibit possible problems of loosening fitments at this critical base.

The base of the mast to Right of photo, evidences a slanted base which fits perfectly into the tabernacle (as far as I can tell with the naked eye).  The second set of holes is a probable because on the other side of this base, the two holes are nearly side by side.
What I need now is to find some stainless steel for this before it becomes an issue.