Baggy Wrinkles

Baggy Wrinkles
S/V Nautica, Hull #614, Built at Whitby Boatworks Ltd., Ontario, Canada 1977, one of the most recognizeable Carl Alberg designs. A masthead sloop displacing 9000 lbs, keel hull, Yanmar 15 hp diesel, LOA 30.27 Beam 8.75, Draft 4.29, roller furling headsail, tiller, berths for 4, interior teak bulkheads, teak cap rail and cockpit teak coamings, 12 volt lighting, aluminum mast support, Harken self tailing winches, in its day was designed for customers as a Cruiser-Racer, the Alberg 30 remains a Classic design of the large Alberg inventory.

Pageviews since BaggyWrinkles started:

Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Painting the dory was a marathon race.  The sole difference was it wasn't to the swift but to the sure.   The application of the hull paint was an ordeal of sorts but the results were rather impressive.  Waiting for several days of cool temps and low humidity had come in late April after an intense several weeks of sanding the bottom paint and prepping for a new bottom paint.  This is the result the day after removing the tape for the first phase:

1st and 2nd coats applied, it was time to re-tape for the boot stripe.

Taking the last waterline found on the hull, I used my boot stripe marker to extract another line on the hull.  After conversation with others and examining photos of the dory in the water, it appeared that the waterline, albeit accurate, did not provide the dory the best appearance when loaded and underway.  



The original water-line disappears and the boat loses some of its linear perspective.  So, I moved the waterline up several inches, and then I placed a 3 inch boot stripe on top of that line.  Decisions, decisions, how would it work?  I knew the water line would now be visible except that stepping onto the hull dockside it will move down quickly.  Remembering that on a large yacht, the lines don't move down at all!  On a little yacht, every bag of goodies and provisioning and people push a dory into the water.  So up with the boot stripe.
Using a thinned mixture of Epifanes mono-urethane grey to cover the sanded hull boot-stripe.
Taping was a major exercise.  A new 3M tape found at Lowe's was the best ever.  It adhered lightly yet could be lifted in order to find the best angle of appearance, then a bit of a press and it is secure.  Once I had penciled the lines with my leveling marker, I then pulled the tape into positioning using my naked eye to validate and adjust the lines I began to see on the hull.  I think this process is similar to looking at something in 3D because you must look for level then stand back and validate that from fore and aft and at beam.  Too, I positioned myself below the transom to examine the arrival of the points.  I adjusted and adjusted, muttering to myself during the process.  It was frustrating and yet after half an hour, I found resolution.
My finish is not perfectly smooth but overall is very smooth to the touch and should do well in the water.  The boot stripe appears white but is actually a shade of grey matching the grey line underneath the rub rail.


Continued boot stripe line meets the transom underneath the stern however the beam view is a perfectly flat line.  Sail Magazine's youtube video was a good primer for working this line.  I began with measurements and then graduated to the eye's view to perfect the curves of the hull when applying the tape.

As temps and sunlight played a role in application of the paints, I could not become impatient and hurry the process.  The Epifanes mono-urethane took 24 hours to cure hard.  And at that point there was sanding to do.  Using a 1000 grit, water and soap, I hand-sanded the entire hull after the initial bottom coat.  I knew I had to create a surface to which the second coat would adhere well.  At this point I began to do the calculations as to whether I'd put a 3rd coat or not.  Thinking I had worked my paint in reverse, applying thick then a thinner, I might as well quit while I was ahead.  There are problems to avoid, like "curtaining" when the paint hangs horizontally and appears like curtains.  And there is the problem of paint simply running down vertical walls if too thin.  Since I started thick I had to be careful.  So, I brokered with the state of the hull, knowing that in a year I will apply another coat anyway.  As per the instructions given by the manufacturer.