Baggy Wrinkles

Baggy Wrinkles
S/V Nautica, Hull #614, Built at Whitby Boatworks Ltd., Ontario, Canada 1977, one of the most recognizeable Carl Alberg designs. A masthead sloop displacing 9000 lbs, keel hull, Yanmar 15 hp diesel, LOA 30.27 Beam 8.75, Draft 4.29, roller furling headsail, tiller, berths for 4, interior teak bulkheads, teak cap rail and cockpit teak coamings, 12 volt lighting, aluminum mast support, Harken self tailing winches, in its day was designed for customers as a Cruiser-Racer, the Alberg 30 remains a Classic design of the large Alberg inventory.

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Saturday, November 1, 2014

After a month away from my Cape Dory, I'm itching to get back to several projects that need attention.  Before I left, I was consulting with the Sailors Tailor about a cover, and now that I'm back I'm not finding anything about a cover completed.  So, that's a due-out.  I hate to think what the Dory looks like since the South is now covered in the first cold storm of the season.

For the past month I've been following the Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage trail.  Either a yellow arrow or a shell marks the700 kilometer walk across the Camino Frances of northern Spain.


So, in absence of the cover, back to something which a posting on the CDSOA site caused me to look in vain to find on my postings; that of the repair of a toe-rail on Baggy Wrinkles.

I inherited a vessel with some dubious injuries on the toe and rub rail which the form
er owner had repaired a bit.  Both starboard and port sides had what appeared to be cracked or splitting sections of the railing.  A 3 or 4 foot section on starboard had replaced what must have been a serious deterioration of the rail.  So, upon closer examination, the screw holes were loose, which would seriously permit water into the hull.  And along the top of each side, numerous bungs were missing, screws were rusting, and one could see problems abounding after a while.  Perhaps someone in the past had thought they'd just put any old screw in, or perhaps they just didn't take the time to get any bungs, and used some caulking instead to plug the screw holes.  For whatever reason, the task appeared important, for as one person asked on the CDSOA site that water might be leaking through these holes?  And for me I believe it may have been true.

When I beat to windward, the splashing water could easily seep underneath the toe rail (due to deteriorating caulking) and with uncertainty in the screws and their caulking into the hull cement, water could gain access that way as well.  So I set forth to remedy the obvious.  Fix the bung holes.  Second task to repair the obvious breach on the rail.

 Although I probably should have photographed my method, I did not.  You'll have to use your imagination.
The photo shows the toe rail after I have c-clamped it back into proper alignment.

I used a couple of pieces of metal to help grab the length of the rail and to insure the c-clamps didn't further injure the wood, creating holes as they brought the wood together.

Too, I decided that I would use a firm bonding epoxy resin and build the rail "up."  The inside portion of the teak had been ripped off further making it impossible for two screws to hold the teak in place.  It splayed out.  Yet I knew that if I used a permanent resin along with screws I could probably resolve the problem for the future or until such time that I might entertain a refit of the entire rails--something I'd prefer a ship-builder to accomplish.  After all, I'm not trying to pretend as if I'm one!  I'm just  doing the nit-noid stuff to keep my boat sea-worthy.

It worked.

So in the following photos you will see the results of my efforts on the starboard side.  The port was identical but not as badly damaged.

Top down view showing the way the resin reforms the toe rail.  I had to keep the alignment with the rail so the white trail of the screw hole is evident on the one hole.  I did not bother with trying to build the top since this is underneath the genoa track.  I could sand this down later and rebuild the top too.  Gives me something to do later.

The resin epoxy adhered really well.  At minimum, it is strong and blends with the teak color well.

Next step was to insert the screws with another hard sealing caulk making sure lots of it was already in the hole.  Water seepage was my concern.  So far so good underneath.

 Since this posting, I realized I needed a "finished product" photo.  I found this while sailing the other day, in quite a bit of wind ( over 20kts at times ) and here is the "fix" with the spring block riding atop doing its job.



So, this is an idea, perhaps not the best repair, but it has seemed to hold now for the past 8 months.  I still have to address re-caulking the seam between the deck and the toe rail however.