Baggy Wrinkles

Baggy Wrinkles
S/V Nautica, Hull #614, Built at Whitby Boatworks Ltd., Ontario, Canada 1977, one of the most recognizeable Carl Alberg designs. A masthead sloop displacing 9000 lbs, keel hull, Yanmar 15 hp diesel, LOA 30.27 Beam 8.75, Draft 4.29, roller furling headsail, tiller, berths for 4, interior teak bulkheads, teak cap rail and cockpit teak coamings, 12 volt lighting, aluminum mast support, Harken self tailing winches, in its day was designed for customers as a Cruiser-Racer, the Alberg 30 remains a Classic design of the large Alberg inventory.

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Thursday, September 4, 2014

Winter is just around the corner.   Not that I care much however.  In the southern USA winter means good winds and ideal sailing for the most part.  Some days may get frisky.  But for the most part, the winters here are a good mixture of sun and wind, making sailing great. 

And with the onset of winter, it's time for a suitable cover for Baggy Wrinkles.  So I set out to secure one of the most referred manufacturers of covers here in the US and had a long conversation.  The conclusion of which was that there does not exist a stem to stern cover template for the Cape Dory Typhoon.  Really, no kidding.  Considerations of whether one wishes a cockpit only or a full cover and all sorts of in-between ideas, go towards the unfortunate fact that a template must be created in order for a proper cover to be designed and sewn for this "one design" Typhoon.

As the manufacturer, who will remain nameless until the unveiling, searched the database of vessels, it became apparent that I would have to get over to Baggy Wrinkles for a "fitting."  I set forth to do just that, in hopes that the design we create will appeal to many who have their Typhoons on trailers with standing rigging in place over winter.

The simplest of means at hand was to use a 4 mm clear plastic sheeting, accessible from the local home improvement store.  The one shown here was a grand total of about $10 dollars and was enough to probably cover the complete Typhoon.  However, the directions were to only do 1/2 the hull as the opposite side has no remarkable differences except for the engine mount portion at the taff-rail. 
And duct-tape, the universal adhesion material used everywhere in the world to make sure stuff stays together!  This little role cost about $4 dollars. 

So the project costs at this point are very low.  The one thing I failed to take with me to the boat yard, which you might need, if you perform this yourself, is a permanent marker to write on the plastic, draw points where access points need to be allowed, etc.  It's important to mark stuff everywhere!


So with these tools in hand I proceeded to take my project in hand and define the shape and design of the forthcoming cover:

The tailor advised me to begin with the boom piece.  It presents a square to which you then can achieve the aft and foredeck portions.  The latter will require curves and folding.  This provides you some peace of mind to be able to get the first part of the job done and provides you with some expertise to attack the angles coming next.
Then I taped on the aft section, with its corner, and back-stay, folding the plastic underneath itself at the taff-rail to achieve that bit of curvature of the stern.  Notice I'm already envisioning the tent at the rear, and a possible vent to accommodate essential draft for keeping the boat free of moisture inside. 
There's not much to fit along the toe rail but 2 toggles for the shrouds.  I cut the plastic near the base of both with scissors to and marked their position with a ball-point pen.
I did this for peace of mind.  This helped me to keep the cut consistent along the rub-rail and enabled me to tape the plastic to the boat, keeping the plastic in somewhat of the shape the cover might eventually be.
I failed to mark the stern flag-pole mount but the tailor will see that in this photo I have sent to him.  The duct-tape again helps to keep things in perspective and holds tight while I make my rounds.
This was harder in planning than in execution.  The foredeck is here attached to the join the mid portion of plastic at the mast point.  The remainder of the sheet is folded under to enable wrapping to the foredeck bowplate.  I mark the halyard and fore-stay entry points and then trim the remainder of plastic away.
The tailor was right.  It only took me about 30 minutes to get to this point.  The sun interfered a bit, as it was in the high 90's and sapping my strength while building my frustration.  Nothing about the template is hard.  I think one has to keep in mind that a template is an approximate.  The tailor is a master at creating these covers for boats, so I have to do my due diligence to approximate it for him. 

I came out pretty good I think.  At this point I'm just concerned to get the cover on the dory before departing to Europe at the end of the month:

This photo is just before the foredeck portion is stretched.  Overall, it had a fair amount of tension and provided a glimpse of what a finished cover might look like.